Brian Minter: The secret to seeds lies in germination. Here's how to create success

There’s a certain magic about seeds. Virtually every plant in the world produces them, and in most cases, they are the most efficient and effective way to start a new plant. There is, however, an art to growing plants from seeds. It takes a little knowledge, good techniques and a bit of luck.

When the process doesn’t go well and germination is poor, it’s easy to blame the seeds. We are fortunate to live in one of the few countries that insists the seed we make available to consumers have been proven to have an appropriately high percentage of germination. In late spring or early summer, all consumer packs of seeds are taken back by suppliers to be tested for germination percentages. If they meet the threshold for that particular seed’s germination rate, they will be stored in ideal conditions for next year’s sales, along with the new seeds.

What are the basics of good germination? Today, Canadian seed companies provide great information, both online and in seed catalogues, about the best methods for successful germination and the length of time it takes from germination until harvest. This is invaluable information because it provides a great sense of the timing needed for a smooth transition from seed to seedling to outdoor plant. Knowing the amount of time required for germination helps determine when to start various varieties of seeds.

Far too many seedlings are lost because we start them too early; the plants simply stretch and become leggy and weak when they cannot be set out in the garden due to unsuitable weather conditions. As a rule of thumb, I try to start seeds a little later, allowing them just enough time to sprout and harden off or acclimatize before planting them outside.

It is also important to know which seedlings are cool-loving and which are heat-loving. With vegetables, for example, cool-loving plants, like onions, brassicas, spinach, lettuce and peas, thrive easily in cool conditions.? Once daytime temperatures reach a consistent 10 C without a night frost, these seedlings can be planted outside.

Seedlings for heat-lovers, like peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers and squash, need a consistent minimum nighttime temperature of 10 C? in order to become well established. However, if you can wait for even warmer nighttime conditions, your heat-lovers will flourish all the better for it.

Many vegetable seeds, like peas, radishes, corn and beans, are best sown directly into the ground. For these relatively easy crops, particularly beans, it’s important to ensure the soil temperature is warm enough for good germination.

For longer maturing crops, especially in the home garden, it is easier to grow pre-started plants — they will take much less time to mature. Peppers, in particular, take a long time to germinate and grow, especially the hot varieties. Tomato seeds are easier to germinate, but seedlings take some time to grow large enough to be set outside. Cucumbers germinate easily, but young plants really need heat to grow well.

Most growers in the horticultural industry, as well as home gardeners, start their seeds in either plug trays or cell packs, both of which are efficient for large productions or smaller numbers of plants. Cell packs usually fit traditional 10 by 20 centimetre flats with many different configurations. Plastic cells are inexpensive and can be sterilized and reused many times. I like to use 1203s or 1204s, meaning you can get twelve units of three or four cells, which is ideal for small numbers. You can start many different seeds, and, as each pack germinates, take the cell out and place it in a cooler, well-lit area for the seedlings to mature.

I like to fill my seed trays with a good seed starter mix or a professional soil mix, like Sunshine No. 4 or ProMix HP. Both products are ideal for either starting seeds or for growing them on. Most seeds should be planted shallow, with just the slightest covering of starter mix. Use quite warm water and a good watering can that has a fine-holed nozzle to thoroughly soak the seeds.

For the best germination, most seeds benefit from some bottom heat in the range of 10 to 20 C. Household temperatures are usually fine, but a heat mat can provide a consistent, even temperature directly to the soil.

Keep seeds moist during the germination process and as they develop their true leaves, then immediately move them to a well-lit area where the temperature is around 10 C. Keeping seedlings drier, cooler and giving them as much light as possible will result in shorter, more compact plants. If necessary, cool them down to 5 C to maintain quality plants. March weather can be quite fickle, so even cool-loving vegetables should not go out into the garden or into containers until daytime temperatures remain around 10 C.

It is a good idea to start successive plantings of seeds all spring and summer. To keep your unused seeds fresh, store them in your refrigerator or your freezer at a consistent temperature.

Whether it is germinating vegetable seeds or flower seeds, you’re probably going to experience some success and a bit of failure. This is normal. It’s a great opportunity to learn from our mistakes. Always record your seeding and outdoor planting times so you can adjust them as necessary for yearly weather changes. As we go forward, being a little more self-sufficient in growing some of our own food is a good thing.